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[Based on the book of RUTTER, OWEN. Triumphant Pilgrimage. It is the true story of an English Muslims Journey from Sarawak to Makkah. Published by Lippincott. Philadelphia. (c. 1937). It is the biography of David Chale, a young Englishman who became a Muslim and married a Malay woman. Together they performed the pilgrimage to Makkah. This article is an account of his journey to Makkah. It tells about his trials and hardhsips he had to undergo before he completed his Hajj pilgrimage. It also informs a reader how he overcame all the difficulties and obstacles that were placed in his way and his feelings of truimph after successfully completing his pilgrimage.]
By A.I. Makki
Abdul Rahman had become a Muslim by deep conviction. He had worked for many years as an officer in the Far East. He was employed in the service of the Rajah of Sarawak. He was British and his name had been David Chale. His work among the Muslim Malays of Borneo had brought him in close contact with their religion.
Gradually he came to recognize the power for good that the Religion of Islam exerted in their daily lives. He admired their tolerance, their courtesy, their self-control, their respect for their parents, and their charitable acts towards the poor. He saw them completely accepting the facts of life and death. He also had noticed their unshakable belief in the values of their faith and in the Unity of God.
Moreover, he envied them for their peace of mind. They were always calm, poised, and dignified, accepting what befell their way as the will of God.
The peace of mind that he sought always eluded him. He worked for eighteen hours a day at a stretch in a hot tropical climate and he had felt a terrible need to acquire peace of mind. The religion of Islam appeared to offer him the choice. He had studied the religion thoroughly, and it was the only alternative to bring him closer to the One and the only True God.
For a long time, he shrank from the decisive step of converting to Islam. He felt that if he became a Muslim, he would be acting treacherously to the religion in which he had been brought up. He suffered intense conflict in his mind. At length, he made his decision. He resigned from his job and converted himself to Islam by reciting the formal declaration of faith:
"I believe in Allah and the Oneness of God, and that Muhammad is the Prophet of God."
He was given a new name. David Chale had become Abdul Rahman.
Like any other true Muslim, Abdul Rahman also yearned to perform a pilgrimage to Makkah as soon as he had embraced Islam. Muslims all over the world aspired to go on that holy journey in spite of every hardship and deprivation that a traveler had to suffer on the voyage to Makkah. He was determined to overcome all obstacles that came his way.
His inquiries had shown him that a mere declaration of faith would not act as a passport to Makkah. The Arabs were intensely suspicious of European Muslims, for many had disguised themselves as Muslims to set foot into the Holy Lands that had been forbidden to the non-Muslims. He realized that before he could set foot into Makkah, he had to win the confidence of the Arabs. His knowledge of Arabic was sound, but he doubted whether that would be enough to get him through the visa barrier. He wanted to sail to the Holy Lands of Makkah and Madinah recognized as a Muslim.
He sought the counsel of Muhammad Ali, an old trusted Malay friend. The old man thought for a while and said, "If one goes to the forest, it is wise to take a staff to help one on the way."
Abdul Rahman was quite conversant with the use of Malay idiom, and knew enough of the language to understand the old man completely. The old man was suggesting that he marry a woman, who had been born and brought up as a Muslim. Abdul Rahman saw the soundness behind this advice at once. Every genuine Muslim had the right to make a pilgrimage to Makkah. It was only those whose good faith was suspect encountered difficulties in getting through. A Muslim woman could go to Makkah without hindrance. It was only natural for a man to take his wife if he could afford the journey. A believing Muslim woman would definitely increase his prospects of getting through the visa formalities.
It was characteristic of his determination to perform the Hajj that he did not hesitate to accept his friends advice. He was prepared to marry a Muslim woman according to the Islamic rites. His choice fell upon Munirah, a beautiful Malay girl, whom he had known since her childhood. It was an arranged marriage. Like every Malay man or woman, Munirah eagerly desired to travel to Makkah on her Hajj pilgrimage. Every year, she had watched with envious eyes, the pilgrims embarking on their journey to the blessed lands of Makkah and Madinah. She had wept because she was too poor to go with them on the pilgrimage. When Abdul Rahman offered her the fulfillment of her dream, she immediately consented to her marriage with him.
They were married in Singapore and soon after prepared to set out on their great journey. However, as soon as Abdul Rahman applied for a visa for Jeddah (the port near Makkah) from the Singapore Authorities he encountered suspicion and hostility. They talked of "international complications." He was told that his motives for being converted to Islam were suspect, and the circumstances behind his conversion, would come under the close scrutiny of the authorities.
Abdul Rahman then decided to take Munirah to England. He decided to obtain the necessary visas from the Arab Legation in London. He had no doubt in his mind that he would be able to convince the Legation of the genuineness of his desire to travel to Makkah as a Muslim.
At the Legation, his passport was carefully examined and he was questioned in detail about his conversion to Islam. At the end of the conversation, the secretary of the Arab Legation pushed his passport across the desk to Abdul Rahman and said, "It is quite impossible for us to give you a visa to visit the Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah." He leaned back on his chair to indicate the interview with him had ended.
Abdul Rahman who was sitting opposite to him made no move to pick up his passport that was on the desk before him. He heard with feelings of astonishment and bitter disappointment the secretarys refusal to grant him a visa on that December morning of 1935. He also knew it would be sheer folly to loose his temper or even appear put off by the rejection. His conversion to Islam had soothed his temper and taught him the wisdom of patience. His religion had taught him that the man who controlled his temper was stronger than he who overthrew his opponent in a duel.
"What crime have I committed that I may not have the privilege that is extended towards every Muslim?" he asked.
"You have not committed any crime, which I know of. It is out of question, that is all," he replied.
"But, why, in Gods name?" demanded Abdul Rahman battling for self-control.
"How long did you tell me that you had been a Muslim?"
"Six weeks."
"Thats your answer. We have strict orders from King Ibn Saud that no European may be granted a visa for Makkah and the Hejaz region unless he has been a Muslim for at least six years."
Abdul Rahman was staggered at the answer. The decree of the king was a complete surprise to him. He felt in his heart a deep grievance for those bogus Muslims who had caused the King Ibn Saud to issue this edict. Nonetheless, he was determined to carry on with the task that he had set out to do.
"Then, give me a visa to Jeddah," he said.
"It would be pointless for us to issue you one unless you are prepared to wait in Jeddah for six long years."
"The decree of the king makes it immensely hard on my wife," said Abdul Rahman, for she has traveled with me all the way from Sarawak hoping to perform the rites of Hajj."
The expression in the secretarys eyes changed suddenly from one of indifference to interest.
"You did not tell me that you were married," he said sharply.
"You didnt ask me."
"You have her passport with you?"
Abdul Rahman produced it. The secretary scrutinized it carefully. At length, he picked up a telephone to talk to a colleague. Finally, he said, "This certainly alters your case. Considering the circumstances, we will give your wife a visa to the Hejaz region. She can travel to Makkah and Madinah and this visa will cover Jeddah.
"Thank you," said Abdul Rahman, "but, what about me. My wife cannot undertake this journey alone."
"We understand that perfectly. Therefore, we will give you a visa to Jeddah. Once there, it will be your job to convince the authorities there to allow you to accompany your wife to Makkah and Madinah. Will that content you?"
"Thank you," replied Abdul Rahman, "it is said that it is wise to wear sandals until God sends to one the slippers."
He came out of the consulate with mixed emotions. He had been partially successful in his visit there. A visa to Jeddah was better than not securing a visa at all. At least, he could go with Munirah to Jeddah. The interview with the secretary had given him enough indication that it would be not be an easy task to go to Makkah once he landed there. However, he was determined to go to Makkah at any cost."
With the visas safely secured, Abdul Rahman was anxious to reach Jeddah as quickly as possible. The date of Hajj was fast approaching and he did not know for how long the authorities would make him wait in Jeddah before he would be allowed entry into the Holy City of Makkah.
He lost no time in boarding a flight to Paris. From there, they took a train to Brindisi, and flew on to Alexandria. On their arrival, they were told that an Egyptian pilgrim ship was about to sail from Suez to Jeddah. Abdul Rahman purchased his passage in the ship for both of them and embarked the ship in the Port.
On board, they noticed that the ship was filled with an extraordinary collection of passengers. There were Turks, Syrians, Moroccans, Indians, and a party of Afghans who had walked all the way to Suez from Afghanistan, crossing the mountains on foot. They had been walking on foot for two years to reach their prized goal of doing their Hajj.
The pilgrims came from every class, the poor and the rich, simple and sophisticated, humble and from those of high society. Some of them wore European suits and felt hats. Others wore clothes, which had not changed from those worn during the time of the Holy Prophet (saws). Abdul Rahman watched the people of different nationalities as they streamed up the gangway of the ship. People of different countries and backgrounds, all of them united on a common purpose of completing their Hajj Pilgrimage.
On the ship were mothers who had their babies strapped to their backs, children, old men who could scarcely crawl without the assistance of others, healthy and dying people. Yet all the pilgrims had one thing in common; all faces of the young and old were transformed with an inner happiness that seemed to glow from within them. It appeared to bind this assorted band of passengers, into a lovely unity. They were all following an ideal that was pure and selfless. All stood on a common level. All of them were pilgrims to the Mother of all Cities-Makkah al Mukarramah. They were all happy in the thought, that the Kind, Merciful God, in His goodness, would allow them to behold the land of Ancient Arabia, the country of His Prophet, and the Holy Land of Islam.
The ship had no cabins for the pilgrims who traveled third class. Abdul Rahman admired at their resilience to adapt to the existing circumstances, by staking their claims for a place on the deck of the ship by spreading out mats and mattresses, and making crude screens to protect their women-folk traveling with them. Cooking pots, crates of fowls and ducks, baskets of vegetables formed a part of their baggage. On its part, the ship would provide a ration of cooked rice everyday for all its passengers and supply to then hot water on demand.
A muezzin aboard the ship would summon the Muslims for prayers five times a day during the voyage. As soon as they heard the adhaan, the people would leave their tasks and hurry towards the Imam who would lead all of them in congregational prayers. They would all spread out their praying mats on their decks, turn towards Makkah for their devotions. A curious silence would descend over the ship during prayer times, except for the voice of the Imam leading the prayers and the responses of the worshippers as they rose and fell in prostration during their prayers.
At last, the ship reached the Port of Jeddah. Abdul Rahman and Munirah found a room in an Arab hotel; a lofty building constructed of sandstone many stories high. They were given a room on the fifth floor. After a meal of rice and dates, they both headed towards the police station where their passports were carefully scrutinized. After asking innumerable questions, Abdul Rahman was told that his papers had to be forwarded to the Chief of Police, who in turn would pass them on to the Amir of Jeddah, and they would pass them on to the authorities in Makkah. How long would that take? A shrug of the shoulders indicated that the Police there did not know the answer.
Abdul Rahman decided to hire the services of an Arab sheikh immediately, who would handle all his affairs, and arrange for his stay during the Hajj. His choice fell on Muhammad Saleh, son of Mustapha Babli, the agent of Abdul Rahman al Qahtan. He left the police station with Munirah, in the company of Muhammad Saleh who assured them that he and his father, along with Sheikh Abdul Rahman al Qahtan would do everything in their power to process their papers as quickly as possible, and assist them in every way during their stay in the Region of Hejaz.
Saleh took Abdul Rahman to meet his father, Mustapha Babli, who invited them to stay in his house until they left for Makkah. However, he warned him not to leave the house until his papers came through unless accompanied by his son Saleh. Abdul Rahman accepted the situation as one of the difficulties he had to encounter during his passage to Makkah. The house of Mustapha Babli was an old stone building, five stories high with an immense doorway. He was lodged in the room of Saleh, which was on the first floor, a spacious chamber carpeted wall-to-wall with beautiful Makkan carpets. Munirah was lodged in the womens quarters, which were entirely separate from those of men.
During his stay, Abdul Rahman underwent the operation of circumcision, and discarded his European suit for the Arab dress. He found the clothes comfortable and they made him less conspicuous. He now spoke Arabic fluently and people would often mistake him to be a Syrian or a Turk. He found life agreeable in Jeddah. However, as the days passed by, he began to get anxious for there was still no news about his papers. On his urgent request, Saleh arranged for him an appointment with the Amir of Jeddah. The Amir received him courteously, but it was clear from the meeting that he was not a man to be hurried. He told him that his papers had been forwarded to the concerned in Makkah and it was necessary for him to wait until they arrived.
Abdul Rahman felt despondent at hearing that his papers would be processed in their own time. However, two days later, he was encouraged for Sheikh Abdul Rahman al Qahtan had arrived from Makkah to see him. The Sheikh had brought with him good news. He had arranged for him a meeting with Prince Faisal the Amir of Makkah. He was coming to Jeddah that very day and he had agreed to give Abdul Rahman an audience.
The palace of the Amir was a modern building. When Abdul Rahman was ushered into his presence, he found the Prince to be a man of great dignity and commanded a natural respect from men. He had imagined that the Prince had the power to grant him the permission and he hoped to secure this during the interview.
The Prince received him courteously, seated on a throne of ebony inlaid with mother-of-pearl. He listened intently to the request of Abdul Rahman to be allowed to go to Makkah for his Hajj. At the end of the interview, the Prince assured him that he would put up a personal word to his father, King Ibn Saud for no convert was allowed to go to Makkah without a permit granted under his personal seal. He was told the King scrutinized every application he received from Muslim converts personally before they were allowed into the precincts of the Holy City of Makkah.
A long period followed. Everyday Abdul Rahman would phone up the Sheikh in Makkah for news about his papers, but none came. The day of pilgrimage was fast approaching and he was impatient to be on his way to perform the rites of Hajj. The city was full of passing people and they left by different vehicles heading towards Makkah. Abdul Rahman watched them with envy in his heart wondering how long it would be before he could follow them on a similar journey.
Then one morning, Saleh came home jubilant. The King, Ibn Saud, had signed the papers and returned them to Jeddah. Abdul Rahman rushed to the Amirs office in Jeddah, where he received the worst blow of all. The Amir had received the papers that admitted that Abdul Rahman was a Muslim, but there was no formal authorization to allow him to Makkah immediately. It was not clear from the papers, whether he should be allowed immediately to proceed to Makkah, or wait for the six-year period to lapse before he would be allowed to perform his Hajj rites.
Abdul Rahman left the office of the Amir in utter dejection. But when he reached the house, he was told by Mustapha that King Ibn Saud was arriving at Jeddah to convey his condolences to the British Ambassador on the death of King George. An audience with the king would solve everything. He promised that he would arrange one, if Allah so willed it.
Three days later, King Ibn Saud arrived in Jeddah accompanied by his retinue of soldiers, bodyguards, and officers. The king agreed to meet Abdul Rahman on the same day itself, after the midday prayer.
At the appointed time, he was ushered into the presence of the king. He had met Prince Faisal earlier in the same chamber. The king was seated on the ebony throne surrounded by his bodyguards. Even in that position, Abdul Rahman could make out that the king was tall, powerful man. His complexion was a rich deep brown and his face bearded.
Abdul Rahman was presented before the king. The king touched his hand and seated near him to make his plea. He told his story before the king.
The king heard him out in silence, and in the end declared, "If pilgrims come to Makkah with a genuine desire to perform their Hajj, then I do not wish to prevent them for that would be acting against the will of God. In order to protect the City of Makkah from impostors, I have been forced to make a rule that converts to Islam must not only be Muslims for six years, but must have lived in Jeddah as well."
Abdul Rahman became desperate. Even in that state, he had sized up the king. The king was a fighter. He would appreciate another fighter.
"I have come to Arabia," he said, "with the intention of performing my Hajj rites. As a king of the faithful, Your Majesty knows well that if a mans intention is genuine, God will count him as having made his pilgrimage, even if he is bodily prevented from reaching the city. If a man prevents a true Believer from making the Hajj, then he must take upon himself the sins of the other who will be forgiven as though he had been purified on the Plain of Arafat."
He waited for his words to sink in and take effect on the king. He had worked himself up into a state of intense emotional excitement; his whole will set upon dominating that of the kings.
"In preventing me from going to Makkah," he said slowly, "is Your Majesty prepared to accept the burden of my sins?"
As he said those words, he watched the kings face intently. His words pregnant in meaning carried in them a grave implication to a believing Muslim. The king looked for the first time a little uncertain. He was a firm believer of the Holy Quran, and he knew that the man before him to be justified in what he said.
After what appeared a long time, he said, "Your words are true Abdul Rahman. To turn away a believer from the Holy City is a grave responsibility even for a king. Yet, I cannot give you my answer now. I will have to consult my advisors in Makkah, and I promise to send you a speedy word."
However, even in spite of the kings promise there was no answer from Makkah. The days passed. The city of Jeddah had almost emptied itself of the pilgrims. Only two days remained before the commencement of Hajj. Both Abdul Rahman and Munirah almost abandoned hope of performing their Hajj that year.
Suddenly Saleh came running with the good news. The king had given permission for him to travel along with his wife to Makkah. The Amir of Jeddah would phone up Makkah to ask the authority of the king to be sent to him by a special messenger. The letter would arrive tonight.
Late that evening, the letter of the king was delivered to Abdul Rahman. A special car had brought it from the king. Now, nothing would prevent him from traveling to Makkah along with his wife.
He was up before dawn. The distance between Jeddah and Makkah was seventy miles. The only means of reaching the Holy City of Makkah to be in time for the Hajj rites would be by a car. However, there were no cars to be found that would take him to Makkah. Every available vehicle had been hired by the other pilgrims bound for Hajj.
Abdul Rahman was now in a state of extreme panic. Without a car, it would not be possible to arrive in Makkah in time for the Hajj. Surely, somebody must have a car. He would pay anything for it.
At last, an enormous lorry fitted with wooden benches was discovered. He hired it at once. The driver was not expecting to go to Makkah. He had no pass. Mustapha rushed to the nearby police station to secure one. In the meanwhile, Abdul Rahman and Munirah donned on the ihram after making a complete ablution. The ihram, which was two pieces of seamless white cloth that every pilgrim had to wear, while upon this holy journey. They loaded their suitcases on the lorry and they were on their way to the City of Makkah.
As the lorry bounced over the rough road, they passed small bands of pilgrims walking along the road, chanting the Pilgrims prayer on the road to Makkah. "Labbayak, Allahumma Labbayak,"-"Here I am O God, here am I!" Abdul Rahman stopped the lorry to pick the weakest among them. At length, they passed through the boundaries of the Holy land, where none but the Muslims may tread. The pilgrims began their chant with renewed vigor as they neared the city. His wife Munirah clasped his hand tightly with wonder and relief to be almost at the end of the prized journey.
There was Makkah!!!
It lay before them, gleaming in the sunshine, surrounded by hills. They could see the flat-topped buildings of the city and the minarets of the Holy Haram, the sanctuary of the Kabah, the great roofless mosque, whose vast courtyard is open to the sky.
Abdul Rahman was enchanted by the scene that lay before him, the loveliness of which could not be described in words. To him Makkah was less of a city than an Idea, which had drawn into its fold, men and women all over the world together in brotherhood and worship. As he gazed upon the city, whose name had become a synonym of mens desires, he felt that he was in presence of something that was linked to the Divine.
Leaving the lorry at the gates of the city, the pilgrims made their way into the narrow streets filled densely with pilgrims from different parts of the world, and reached Qahtans house. The Arab Sheikh received them at the door and greeted them warmly. "You have come here by the will of God," he said.
He engaged them a guide-instructor to teach them the rituals of Hajj. There was no time to be lost. After a short rest, they headed to join the other pilgrims circumambulating around the Holy Kabah, the ancient House of God. The Kabah stood in the center of the great mosque. It was covered with a black cloth embroidered with in a golden thread verses from the Holy Quran. The faith of Islam revolved from this pivot. Every pilgrim had to make the customary seven circuits on the marble pavement, which surrounded the Kabah, stopping once to kiss the sacred black stone that was fixed to one of the corners of the Kabah. It was protected by a silver mount.
Abdul Rahman and Munirah joined the tide of thronging pilgrims making the circuit around the Kabah. As they approached to kiss the Hijr-e-Aswad, the crush of the pilgrims became great. In spite of it, both of them managed to kiss it. From there, they headed towards the well of Zamzam to drink for it. It was the water, which Allah (swt) had bestowed to Lady Hajira, the wife of the Great Prophet Ibrahim (a.s) and her son Ismael (a.s). After completing all the rituals at the Holy House, they joined the procession of pilgrims that were heading towards Mina, and from there they would proceed to Arafat, which was located fifteen miles north-west of Makkah. There were pilgrims marching towards it on foot, on camels, lorries, and cars.
The Plain of Arafat was a vast encampment of tiny tents. They had pitched their tent on it immediately after dawn and waited for the Day of Arafat to begin.
As soon as the combined midday prayers were over, the pilgrims came out streaming into the Plain. Many of them stood supplicating to the God, most High to cleanse them of the sins of their past. While the pilgrims were at their supplications standing on the Plain of Arafat, their white ihrams fluttering in the wind like the banners of an army, there came out of the valley a fierce wind which many of the Muslims over there had heard about but never experienced in person. It was the whirlwind of Arafat.
Abdul Rahman saw it coming from afar. It was a vast pillar of whirling sand. It was high and set dark against the clear blue sky. It came raging over the plain with a menacing droning sound. It hit the tents pitched on the Plain with a force that laid them flat on the ground. The crack of snapping poles and the ripping of the canvas added to the uproar. The pilgrims bent their bodies to the ground to guard themselves, against the stinging sand that raced around them. Some leapt to seize their tent ropes before they were hurled away. Others ran to the panic-stricken beasts. Camels and donkeys were stampeding. Terrified animals meant for sacrifice ran helter-skelter among the crowd of people adding to the confusion.
Three times the wind stormed around the plain, then died away with little warning as it had come. For a few moments after that, there was an intense calm among the crowd of pilgrims. A sigh of content and satisfaction went up among the crowd. A murmur of thankfulness addressed to God. It appeared to them that the departing wind had washed away the sins of three hundred thousand souls who had descended upon the Plain of Arafat to perform the rites of Hajj.
The great multitude of people began to stream across the plain to prepare for the next leg of their journey to Muzdalifah. Abdul Rahman stood apart and watched them as they passed by him. He had still to complete the other rituals of Hajj. He had to visit the tomb of the Holy Prophet (saws) at Madinah, and pray in the Holy Mosque there. Then he would accompany his wife Munirah safely back to her own country. His choice of her as his wife had been justified.
She had been brave, uncomplaining, gentle, and when the need arose most wise. She had grown dearer to him than he could have ever believed. She would return to Sarawak with the respected title of Haja (one who has completed her Hajj). As for himself, he felt that it was the beginning of a new life for him rather than a journeys end. All his anxieties, his sacrifices, his tribulations were as trifles compared to the joy, which was in his heart for having been a part of this pilgrimage. He could not have accomplished this journey without the will of God. By his struggle against adversity, he had fulfilled himself, and by attaining his purpose, he had achieved a spiritual victory, which would sustain him all his life.
Last update : 14-03-2004 03:57
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